How to Install a Machined to Match Door?
Submitted by: Woody Wall on November 25, 2011
- You should replace your old hinges because worn or loosely mounted hinges will allow the door to sag and bind, no matter how well it fits the opening.
- You may need to adjust the hinges depending on the squareness of your frame. Your door will be machined to match your old door. If the jamb is out of square, shimming adjustments may be required (a) behind the hinges. The cardbaord from your hinge box works well behind the hinges if the door is not sitting square. If the jamb needs shimming, you may have to remove the casing to shim up the jamb to make it square.
- If the door binds, you can also adjust by mortising the hinge onto the door slightly deeper.
If your hinges seem like they do not line up, one of the following solutions may be of help to you.
- Using a hammer, lightly tap the hinge that is higher than its partner to line them up. The pins should then slip into place.
- Loosen the hinge that will not go on and then put it into place and tighten the hinge back up.
Once you have your door on its hinges and door will not close, check one of the following:
- If the door is rubbing against the door stop and you may have to mortise the hinge further into the door.
- If the door is free near the bottom but binds near the top on the latch side, the bottom hinge may be set in too deep. Remove the bottom hinge and put a piece of cardboard behind the hinge and reset the screws. This problem may be reversed also.
- Check all screws to make sure they are tight.
Just because you door has been machined to match your door does not mean it will fit perfectly, particularly if the old door was wood. A wood door may have warped or twisted over the years to fit the frame.
- If your door binds against the jamb after your hinges are tight and well seated, you’ll have to identify the areas of interference and plane them with a sharp hand plane. Don’t use a hand rasp, it is almost useless on wood.
- With the door shut, use a thin piece of cardboard and slide all around the perimeter of the door. Mark interfering areas lightly with a pencil. Lightly plane the excess.
- Avoid splintering... when planing the cross-grained wood usually found on the ends, always plane away from the corner and towards the center.
Latches or Backset
- If there is no binding and the hinges are tight and well seated, but the door still refuses to behave...check out the latch. Most door closures are spring loaded retractable latches. The connect to the door handle and interlock with the opening in the strike plate on the door jamb. These two parts must line up exactly when the door is closed.
The rattling door...
- If the door rattles less than 1/8”, you may be able to fix the problem simply by adjusting the tab on the bearing side of the strike plate. These metal tabs are made to take a slot screw driver, and can be bent in and out, a little at a time until the rattling is gone.
- A severe rattle can be fixed by relocating the strike plate or removing the doorstop and renailing it against the closed and latched door.
The door that won’t latch with ease or latch at all...
- Apply a little opaque goop (hand lotion, white glue or sun screen...they all work well) to the tip of the latch. Retract the latch into the door by using the door knob. Shut the door and let the latch touch the strike plate. Pull the latch in again and open up the door. The goop will mark the spot where the tip of the latch hits the strike plate. To fix the problem now, the metal between the opening in the strike plate and the “goop mark” needs to be removed.. You can either file it the mismatch is small or relocate the strike plate or the doorstep if the mismatch is large.
Help is a call away
If you are having a problem, phone back to the store and talk to one of our qualified staff. We may be able to guide you through your problem.